Where we stayed: Pirate's Cove. Can you find the canal boat in this picture?
Hairston Bend is a pleasing bit of swamp, foliage tastefully arranged as if an artist had planned it: Tall, dark-green clumps of cattails fronted by rafts of water hyacinth still showing their purple blooms, backed by sweet gum trees, turning red, against oaks and willows in various soft shades of light green, back-dropped by dark green pines. Here and there the weathered gray spikes of dead cypress trees break the water, their twisted arms supporting watchful cormorants. As night fell coyotes started howling and a fingernail crescent moon glowed against the red rim of the sky.
We're cruising into a lightly populated zone in west-central Alabama. It was populous in the 1850s, before the trains took business away from the river. You'd think, from the Verizon map, that the whole world is well wired, but apparently not here.
Don't forget the last What IS It? is still unanswered.
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